Nowhere on earth is as still as Venice at night. No street vendors, no tourists, no sound – only the occasional splashing of oars in a canal. Some nights, the acqua alta siren breaks the stillness. Slow and melodic, it warns of an incoming high tide. A few hours later and the city is submerged.
Ethereal, brooding and lonely, the streets of Venice echo a history that spans a millennium. It is the story of how a swampy lagoon – inhabited first by a group of refugees turned fishermen – was transformed into one of the richest trading powers in the world. Yet, for all her history, Venice is not a museum (or a mausoleum, as some commentators might see it). Within this labyrinth of narrow bridges, cramped courtyards, twisting canals and shuttered squares, is a living, breathing city, ideal for a short break.
Best of the Beaten Track
First off, don’t expect to see the whole of Venice in a weekend. This is a city made up of 450 bridges, 120 islands and a maze of narrow, twisting streets (according to Jan Morris, mere decades ago you could find Venetians who’d lived in the same ward their whole life and never travelled to St Mark’s square). Speaking of which, make this grand piazza your first stop. Bordered on the East by the façade of St Mark’s, it’s changed little during the 1000 years of its existence, and whether crowded with people in the height of summer, flooded in high tide, or silent in the moonlight, it is always magic.
Once you’ve had your fill of the orchestras and pigeons battling it out in the square, climb up the Campanile. Rebuilt in 1912 after it collapsed unexpectedly (amazingly, killing nobody bar the caretaker’s cat), the bell tower offers a breathtaking view of the clustered roofs of Venice. If there’s not too much of a queue, visit the Basilica, if only for the glittering mosaics that line the inside of her five grandiose domes.
Next, follow the yellow signs to Rialto. While the bridge is impressive, the fish and vegetable market tucked away to its side is far more interesting. Bustling with chefs and old Venetian housewives, it’s awash with colour, noise and the smell of the sea. From here you can hop on the tragetto – a gondola that will ferry you across the Grand Canal for the princely sum of 50 cents.
In a city like Venice, where almost every home is rendered fascinating by the remains of ancient arches and windows juxtaposed with flowery window boxes and strings of washing, there’s little scope for galleries and museums. However, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is an exception. Regarded as the best place in Italy to see twentieth century art, the bright and modern museum offers a welcome respite from Venice’s tangled streets and is must for any long weekend itinerary. Book a ticket in advance and you can skip the line.
Dusk in Venice is best seen from the Lagoon – the perfect excuse for an afternoon trip to some of the city’s closest islands. The glass-making mecca of Murano is the most popular, but Burano is also well worth a visit. Known for its lace production, this colourful isle is the perfect spot to watch the sun set over La Serenissima.
If you do want to get out to the islands then Get Your Guide offer a best-selling boat trip that takes you to both Murano and Burano islands for a reasonable price. Or else check out their complete list of things to do, including tours of Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, for some more inspiration.
Hipster’s Guide
Thomas Mann once described Venice as ‘part fairy-tale, part tourist trap’. Yet, for all the crowds and souvenir shops, Venice is still a living and working city. From the laundry-lined streets of Castello to the bustling markets at Rialto, you can glean a picture of real Venice if you look hard enough.
A good place to start is the Ghetto. Break away from the bustling Strada Nuova and within five minutes you’ll find yourself inside Europe’s oldest Jewish ghetto. With its distinctive tall buildings, quiet courtyards and fantastic Jewish museum,it offers a fascinating slice of Venetian history, while being mercifully free of tourists. Before venturing back towards the city’s clogged streets, cross Ponte delle Guglie and head towards Parco Savorgnan – a shady park that’s frequented only by Venetians, their children, and the city’s cats.
Experience & Events
Tucked away from Venice’s narrow streets lies dozens of lush green gardens. Gardener and author Tudy Sammartini offers tours of these secret gardens, painting the city’s history through stories of lilac and lavender. For a different view of the city, book yourself onto a kayak tour. Venice Kayak offer evening tours, giving visitors the chance to paddle through the unlit canals of the city – an unforgettable, if slightly eery, experience. And if you can’t leave The Floating City without a ride in a gondola, you can book one in advance here.
This content comes from: https://www.urbantravelblog.com/guide/venice/